Daily park fees can quickly add up, but fear not! There’s a wealth of free trails just waiting to be explored beyond the park gates. My tactic? Taxis to trailheads and hitching rides back, though admittedly it’s a bit of a gamble. For those with the means or travelling in a group, renting a car opens up a world of possibilities, granting the freedom to roam and offering a broader range of accommodation outside the town.
Embarking on my first adventure outside the park, I tackled the Vinciguerra Glacier and Laguna de los Témpanos Trail. This 11km trek winds its way 650m up (2132.) culminating at the glacier and then back down again. While labeled as difficult, I’d peg it more as moderate to hard, devoid of technical challenges. The trailhead lies approximately 8km from Ushuaia’s town center, near the residential Andorra Barrio. A quick taxi ride, costing around $6, whisked me there. For those wanting to spend the night in nature there are several campsites dotting the vicinity, such as Camping La Encantada, providing a budget-friendly alternative to the steep hostel rates mentioned in my earlier post.
What I will say about this hike is that it’s a tale of mud and sweat. As you wander through the meadow on your way to the wooded path, you are enveloped in a sea of buttercups, pass wild horses, and cross a picturesque stream. However, be warned: this tranquil beginning belies the challenging journey that lies ahead. Upon reaching the woods, the hike becomes significantly more physically demanding. About 50-60% of the route involves a hard, steep slog up an extremely muddy and steep incline through an otherwise unremarkable forest, devoid of any views. Admittedly, I found myself somewhat disheartened, longing for a glimpse of beauty amidst the slog. Yet, just when I thought all was lost, the final kilometer emerged, offering breathtaking panoramas that washed away any earlier frustrations. The glacier itself is undeniably beautiful; I actually had a minor fall while walking on it, but thankfully, I was not hurt, apart from a dent in my pride. Then, I headed back down the mundane and laborious muddy path, slipping and sliding all over the place. My walking sticks proved to be a godsend on the descent, and I cannot recommend waterproof boots enough. The hike took me about 5 hours to complete, and I’ll be honest—I was happy when I finished it.
In retrospect, I must admit the hike left me somewhat underwhelmed. Perhaps my expectations were unfairly heightened by the awe-inspiring vistas of the Huemul circuit, a tough act to follow. Nonetheless, every journey has its own story, and this muddy escapade will certainly be one for the books.
